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Old 08-15-2012, 04:12 PM   #16
Psi*
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The Zalman VF1000 arrived. It looks like it will be a fit with minimal modification to the OEM top side heat spreader. Yes, I think things fit well with the OEM heat spreader. But don't pull out that CC yet.

Holding it all together will be interesting to figure out. There are plenty of holes that line up, but the outer threaded ones will probably get drilled out ... these are the ones that the screws that go thru the back plate screw into.

I will try to get some pics up this eve for argument

@ atypicalguy ... "I turned it off at 90 degrees on the .nbody simulation." How are you measuring the temperature?
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Old 08-15-2012, 04:44 PM   #17
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Good news on that aircooler! Part of me didn't want to drill that plate out because I figured they used eight screws for a reason (to hold it to the pcb). But I'm sure it will be fine.

For temp readout I jammed a thermocouple from the Coolerguys $50 fan controller down beneath the heatsink plate, into the thermal grease around where it mounts to the gpu. A bit of electrical tape to stick the wires to the black plate, then ran it along the edge out the end of the card. I stuck the temp readout on top of the power supply box. It runs on a 4-pin Molex connector. My case has a clear plastic side, so I can just glance down there and see what the temp is at the gpu. I may hook some fans up to it eventually; right now it is just a nice digital thermometer.

Ordered the little koolance waterblock and a Swiftech CPU water kit today. Should be here Friday. I will probably leave the CPU alone and just run lines to the GPU instead.

The only missing piece is figuring out what size the original heatsink mounting screws are, so I can get some the proper length for mounting the water block. I will try the original ones first of course.

Thanks for the update.

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Originally Posted by Psi* View Post
The Zalman VF1000 arrived. It looks like it will be a fit with minimal modification to the OEM top side heat spreader. Yes, I think things fit well with the OEM heat spreader. But don't pull out that CC yet.

@ atypicalguy ... "I turned it off at 90 degrees on the .nbody simulation." How are you measuring the temperature?
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Old 08-15-2012, 06:53 PM   #18
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PS on my card looking at the heatsink side far up near the left upper corner there is a two-pronged jack that is very similar to the jack for my thermocouple attachment on the fan controller. It does not look like a fan power jack; no 3rd or 4th pin or space for same. Any ideas what the jack is for? If one plugs in a thermocouple might one be able to read temp from the card? Puzzling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Psi* View Post
The Zalman VF1000 arrived. It looks like it will be a fit with minimal modification to the OEM top side heat spreader. Yes, I think things fit well with the OEM heat spreader. But don't pull out that CC yet.

Holding it all together will be interesting to figure out. There are plenty of holes that line up, but the outer threaded ones will probably get drilled out ... these are the ones that the screws that go thru the back plate screw into.

I will try to get some pics up this eve for argument

@ atypicalguy ... "I turned it off at 90 degrees on the .nbody simulation." How are you measuring the temperature?
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:30 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atypicalguy View Post
Good news on that aircooler! Part of me didn't want to drill that plate out because I figured they used eight screws for a reason (to hold it to the pcb). But I'm sure it will be fine.
.
.
.
The only missing piece is figuring out what size the original heatsink mounting screws are, so I can get some the proper length for mounting the water block. I will try the original ones first of course.
Checking it over a little more, the alternative is to drill out the 4 inside hole on the back plate. This will allow the thumb screws they provide to capture the "nipples" as they call them that screw into the the air cooler's heat plate. The thumb screws will hold the pressure plate of the heatsink & back plate together. This would also allow to backup to the original by just adding washers under the original screws on the back plate. Latest thought ... Counter sinking the holes just enough will do the same!

All screws are the same thread ... of course nothing I have says what that is.

Last edited by Psi*; 08-16-2012 at 09:10 AM.
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Old 08-15-2012, 10:08 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atypicalguy View Post
PS on my card looking at the heatsink side far up near the left upper corner there is a two-pronged jack that is very similar to the jack for my thermocouple attachment on the fan controller. It does not look like a fan power jack; no 3rd or 4th pin or space for same. Any ideas what the jack is for? If one plugs in a thermocouple might one be able to read temp from the card? Puzzling.
No clue about that jack. Wild guessing, if Nvidia monitors temp like Intel, then the sensing is on chip but still requires a device nearby as the interface. I think that may be missing on this board. But, I have never plugged one of my M2090s in as I just have not had the time. I have had a i7-990X for several months to upgrade from a i7-920. I am hoping to be able to do the upgrades in 1 weekend.

I think the jack for the fan is in the opposite corner ... where there is no jack but a place for one.
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:52 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psi* View Post
No clue about that jack. Wild guessing, if Nvidia monitors temp like Intel, then the sensing is on chip but still requires a device nearby as the interface. I think that may be missing on this board. But, I have never plugged one of my M2090s in as I just have not had the time. I have had a i7-990X for several months to upgrade from a i7-920. I am hoping to be able to do the upgrades in 1 weekend.

I think the jack for the fan is in the opposite corner ... where there is no jack but a place for one.
If you are in CUDA mode for most of your analysis running 25% CPU load, why upgrade the processor? Just curious.
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:12 AM   #22
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Not all models fit in the 6 GB of the Tesla. Even then the software has substantial pre-/post-processing with some single threaded & some multi- and not CUDA. So a fast host CPU is needed.
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Old 08-20-2012, 04:03 AM   #23
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Long story short I went with the following:

koolance GPU-210

Swiftech H2O-220 Edge HD

The koolance block is smaller than the heat spreader on the GPU, but it seems to work anyway. Bolt on to existing heat sink mounts; I used the old screws. Runs about 45 deg on nbody simulation now fullscreen double precision 16,000 bodies or whatever. Be sure to order hose fittings with this block if you get one - I did not and had to drive a long way to get two extras. Kind of cheap of them to not include them I think.

I wasn't planning on cooling the cpu, but since the cpu block came with the radiator kit, and the block seemed to fit, I figured I would use it. The old CPU fan was interfering with the radiator installation also, so it is a win-win. I plumbed it in series, so it goes pump-> gpu-> cpu-> radiator-> pump. Should probably put the CPU first but oh well.

Apart from my motherboard sending me alarms on boot about the cpu fan not working, it is great. I will plug the pwm cable from the pump into that jack and see if I can get rid of the beep.

Sort of a pain to get the radiator to fit inside my case; Cooler Master Elite. You can do it, but I had to zip tie the radiator up there because the radiator mounting holes would not align with the mounting holes predrilled for the fans. The case was really not designed for an internal radiator. Next computer will definitely have a full tower case...it is tight on the memory cards but seems to be OK.

I plugged both radiator fans into the temp controller from CoolerGuys. It is binary off/on and it would certainly be nice to have that aquaero programmable one, but I kind of doubt I will get one as this one works well enough for now. I wish I knew how hot the cpu was getting so perhaps there is a role for a fancier unit after all. I can look in the motherboard setup screen and see a number, but that is obviously not under load. To be safe I just set the temp control to some low kick-in temp. The thermocouple is at the gpu heat spreader again.

Thanks again for your input everyone. I don't think I would have thought to go water except for this forum.

Last edited by atypicalguy; 08-20-2012 at 04:06 AM.
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Old 08-20-2012, 05:29 AM   #24
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Glad you got everything up and running. Let us know how things are holding out after a week or so. Guess you have to figure out what to do with all the air cooling kit now .

I wouldn't be too concerned with going from GPU > CPU in the chain. Water cooling is much more efficient and temperatures are unlikely to exceed what they were on air, even being pre-heated by the GPU. However, if you do become concerned, you could pre-cool by adding a small, single slot 80-120mm radiator after the GPU block, before feeding into the CPU. This could be back plate or side panel mounted, with the larger radiator in the top of the case. The pump should be able to handle the extra pressure (since it's rated for up to a triple rad). It all depends on space, location of the radiators and mounting slots available in the case.
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:43 AM   #25
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LOL, it doesn't matter where the parts are in the loop. The loop will equalize temp wise and the difference may be 1C. Even high end GPUs creating massive heat (overclocked and all) are typically only 1C apart if you have several and the water passes through in series.

Sounds like a win on the cooling however. What size rad are you running?
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Old 08-20-2012, 11:45 AM   #26
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haha ... so the "air guy" went water & the water guy (moi) is probably going to go air! I had a lot of work over the weekend & made no progress other than a dry fit.

I like the setup you describe. Nice job.
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Old 08-20-2012, 02:56 PM   #27
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Quote:
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haha ... so the "air guy" went water & the water guy (moi) is probably going to go air! I had a lot of work over the weekend & made no progress other than a dry fit.

I like the setup you describe. Nice job.
I should have put some valves in but whatever - it is all bolted together now.

The best part is being able to bolt the water block directly onto the GPU plate using the same four screws/springs/holes. The 3/4" hoses rub on the black heat plate a bit, and it is a bit tight so no compression fittings - I used hose clamps everywhere. One could use 45 degree fittings but it is nice having the lines come straight out parallel to the card - one out the top and another out the "back".

If one already had a water setup installed, this would be a no-brainer. It would also be extendable to multiple M2090s pretty easily. The CPU block even has multiple outlets so you could rig return lines to this radiator in parallel; main line ->CPU -> separate lines to two or three GPUs -> back separately to the radiator.

@Darkstar it is a two place radiator 120mm fans. It does not seem to have any problem with the E3-1280 or GPU going full tilt. It is hard to find an app that loads them both up at the same time; maybe BOINC or something along with a CFD run.

Where can I get a UV light for inside the case? Just want to be sure to see any leaks if they develop.
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Old 08-20-2012, 07:19 PM   #28
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Hello again everyone,

I finally am home again and am ready to install my tesla card with the EK waterblock into the loop/system. However before I do, id like to toss the OE heatspreader back on the card and get a temp reading on it for comparison sake. Does anyone here know of a software application that supports temp monitoring of the Tesla m2090?
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Old 08-21-2012, 03:29 AM   #29
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This is part of the problem atypicalguy had. Although he was in Linux, he couldn't get any sensor information that correlated with the Tesla. This may be either a driver problem or it just doesn't have a sensor. Only thing that could be done was to attach a sensor to a fan controller or something, that's stuck to the underside of heatsink/block.
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Old 08-21-2012, 04:41 AM   #30
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Quote:
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I should have put some valves in but whatever - it is all bolted together now.

The best part is being able to bolt the water block directly onto the GPU plate using the same four screws/springs/holes. The 3/4" hoses rub on the black heat plate a bit, and it is a bit tight so no compression fittings - I used hose clamps everywhere. One could use 45 degree fittings but it is nice having the lines come straight out parallel to the card - one out the top and another out the "back".

If one already had a water setup installed, this would be a no-brainer. It would also be extendable to multiple M2090s pretty easily. The CPU block even has multiple outlets so you could rig return lines to this radiator in parallel; main line ->CPU -> separate lines to two or three GPUs -> back separately to the radiator.

@Darkstar it is a two place radiator 120mm fans. It does not seem to have any problem with the E3-1280 or GPU going full tilt. It is hard to find an app that loads them both up at the same time; maybe BOINC or something along with a CFD run.

Where can I get a UV light for inside the case? Just want to be sure to see any leaks if they develop.
Not bad, the 240 should be enough for the most part, just don't go adding things to the loop lol The rule is basically, 120mm of a good thick rad per component, none of that "slim rad" junk. After that its fit as much rad as possible lol That's why I have a 360 and a 280, both of which need new fans though.
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